Home of the protected loggerhead
turtle & Reedbed scene for filming of the African Queen
The Dalyan delta is a unique environment whose
geographical diversity and lush vegetation sustain a vast
array of flora and fauna. This region has long attracted the
attention of ecologists and conservationists, and since 1986
the whole Dalyan delta has been protected by its status as
a wildlife sanctuary.
Dalyan turtle beach & river
delta
From inland mountains, several streams converge at the majestic
Koycegiz Lake which was once an open bay to the sea. Today,
silting has created a fertile plain through which the Dalyan
River winds its way - past the haunting remains of an ancient
city and through a labyrinth of tall reed beds to emerge at
the stunning Iztuzu Beach.
The convivial little town of Dalyan sits beside the river,
the flow of its bright green waters setting the pace of life
for this rural community. Village ladies still hang corncobs
and peppers up to dry on strings that hang from cottage eaves
in the flower-lined alleyways, and visitors share the streets
with chickens, tractors, cows and bicycles (the locals favoured
method of transport). In addition to tourism, the main occupations
here are cotton growing and fish farming (Dalyan translates
as fishing weir). In recent years, many fishing boats have
been converted to carry passengers and these 'water taxis’
offer the best way to reach Dalyan’s fascinating attractions.
Cliff face rock tombs (4th c BC),
Dalyan
At Dalyan’s famous mud baths, you experience
the dubious pleasure of being caked in warm mud in the hope
of rejuvenation and the many therapeutic benefits they claim,
but alas only a great deal of fun and the sulphurous odour
can be guaranteed! Drift downstream to marvel at the magnificent
4th century BC tombs which loom like miniature temples hewn
out of the cliffs high above the river, right opposite the
town.
Further down the river you can disembark at the
fish hatcheries below the rocky acropolis of Caunos to explore
these dramatically situated ruins. Some of the most impressively
fortified walls still standing in Western Turkey are found here
along with the imposing Roman Baths and a Byzantine basilica.
You can wander for hours among the scattered columns of unearthed
temples or sit atop the near-complete Greek-style theatre, as
they did in ancient times, to contemplate the beauty of the
scene as the sun sets upon it.
So much is to be discovered
by boat: marsh frogs croak in the rushes, stripe-necked
terrapins dart in and out of the water and the variety
of birds is bewildering. The river meets the sea, 40
minutes by boat from the town quay, at the five kilometre
golden sandbar of Iztuzu Beach. Backed by lagoons and
mountains, this is the nesting ground of the rare loggerhead
turtle, the 95-million-year-old species, Caretta caretta.
The beach is off limits after dark which is when the
turtles lay their eggs and the young hatch, but during
the day you can swim or stroll the entire length of
this vast and unblemished stretch of sand.
Iztuzu turtle beach,
Dalyan
Tranquility under a tree, Iztuzu
beach, Dalyan
Those few in the know can head to the opposite
end of the beach - where the views are as spectacular as the
peace - easily reached by the regular dolmus service from
Dalyan which takes about 20 minutes.
For many visitors to Dalyan, the most lasting impression
will be of their voyage onto the fresh clear waters of Koycegiz
Lake. The lake is particularly entrancing in the soft light
of early morning or at night when the magical spell is broken
only by the splash of a leaping fish.
In Dalyan town centre the atmosphere
is friendly and relaxed with shops providing for
the needs of visitors and locals alike. The turtle
has become the town’s symbol and its image
dominates the souvenir stalls, which compete with
carpet, jewellery and spice shops, small grocers
and a cobbler. There is a good choice of restaurants
and Dalyan’s location assures that both sea
and freshwater fish are on the menu.
Dalyan village and river
boats
Turkish traditions still hold strong here and nowhere is
this more evident than at Dalyan’s thriving Saturday
market, a riot of colour, smell and sound. Devotees of the
extraordinary variety to be found in the street bazaars will
also want to sample the bigger and more authentic weekly market
at Mugla and they can smooth away the rigours of shopping
at the town’s 700-year-old Turkish bath.
Dalyan is an ideal base for those who wish to discover the
many aspects of the Turkish way of life. From the nearby port
of Göcek, you can board a gulet, the traditional wooden
sailing craft, for the unforgettable Twelve Islands Cruise.
